Hyaluronic Acid in Skincare

Hydration, Molecular Weight, and the Case for Freeze-Dried Single-Dose Delivery.

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is one of the most widely used and clinically studied actives in skincare. Its exceptional water-binding capacity makes it an important humectant, while its natural role in the extracellular matrix of the dermis connects it to skin hydration, tissue volume and structural function.

The clinical evidence supporting topical HA is strong. The formulation question — particularly around molecular weight, penetration and preservative-free delivery — is where important formulation considerations arise.

This page explores what current literature shows about topical hyaluronic acid, why molecular weight influences its behaviour in skin, and how the EVIK™ LyoPearl freeze-dried bead format delivers sodium hyaluronate in a single-dose dry format.

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01 — SKIN SCIENCE

What Hyaluronic Acid Does in Skin

Hyaluronic acid is a glycosaminoglycan — a naturally occurring polysaccharide found throughout the body, with particularly high concentrations in the extracellular matrix of the dermis.

In skin, HA contributes to tissue hydration and extracellular matrix structure. Chronological ageing and photoageing can alter HA production and degradation, contributing to changes in hydration, skin turgor and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Published clinical and laboratory studies have investigated several mechanisms of topical sodium hyaluronate relevant to skincare.

Papakonstantinou et al., Dermato-Endocrinology, 2012; Gosiya et al., review, 2025.

1

Humectant Hydration & Water Retention

Sodium hyaluronate is widely used as a humectant in skincare. Its strong water-binding capacity helps maintain hydration at the skin surface and within the epidermal layers.

Clinical studies have reported improvements in skin hydration, softness and transepidermal water loss following topical sodium hyaluronate application.

Parikesit Muhammad et al., Archives of Dermatological Research, 2024; JCAD multi-weight HA study, 2024.

2

Barrier Function Support

Maintaining hydration within the stratum corneum supports the physical properties of the skin barrier and can help reduce transepidermal water loss associated with dry skin.

A 2024 double-blind randomised controlled trial reported improvements in skin hydration in elderly patients with xerosis cutis following topical sodium hyaluronate application.

Parikesit Muhammad et al., Archives of Dermatological Research, 2024.

3

Anti-Aging & Skin Rejuvenation

Reduced HA content and altered extracellular matrix function are associated with age-related changes in skin hydration, volume and elasticity.

Topical sodium hyaluronate provides surface hydration and can temporarily improve the appearance of fine lines through its water-binding and film-forming properties.

Multi-weight HA formulations have also been investigated for complementary surface and epidermal effects.

JCAD Clinical Evaluation of Next-generation Multi-weight HA, 2024; Gosiya et al., 2025.

4

Receptor-Mediated & Anti-Inflammatory Activity

Hyaluronic acid interacts with cell-surface receptors including CD44 and RHAMM, which are involved in cellular signalling, tissue repair and wound-healing processes.

Research has identified differences in biological activity between high molecular weight HA and smaller HA fragments, making molecular weight an important formulation consideration.

Gosiya et al., MedCrave review, 2025.

02 — MOLECULAR WEIGHT

Why Molecular Weight Matters

Not all hyaluronic acid behaves identically in skin. Molecular weight influences where HA is positioned, how it interacts with the skin surface and what formulation behaviour can be expected.

Surface Hydration

High Molecular Weight HA

HMW-HA > 1,000 kDa

Higher molecular weight HA predominantly remains at the skin surface and upper stratum corneum.

It forms a hydrating film that helps reduce transepidermal water loss and provides immediate surface hydration and a temporary plumping effect.

High molecular weight HA has also been investigated for anti-inflammatory properties.

Essendoubi et al., Skin Research and Technology, 2016.

Complementary Delivery

Multi-Weight HA Blends

HMW + LMW Species

Multi-weight HA formulations combine different molecular weight species to provide complementary formulation behaviour.

Higher molecular weight HA can support surface hydration, while lower molecular weight species are investigated for interaction with deeper epidermal layers.

Multi-weight approaches are increasingly used in advanced HA skincare formulation research.

JCAD Clinical Evaluation of Next-generation Multi-weight HA, 2024.

Molecular Weight & Skin Interaction
Higher MW
Surface hydration
Multi-weight
Complementary action
Lower MW
Deeper epidermal interaction
EVIK™ LyoPearl Hyaluronic Acid: available with specified molecular weights. Contact Evik Diagnostics to discuss HMW, LMW or multi-weight sodium hyaluronate bead formulations for specific product-development requirements.
03 — LYOPHILIZED DELIVERY

Why Freeze-Dried Bead Format for Hyaluronic Acid?

Conventional aqueous HA formulations require a microbiological preservation strategy because water provides an environment in which microorganisms can grow. Repeated opening of multi-use products also introduces repeated exposure to the environment.

EVIK™ LyoPearl Hyaluronic Acid removes free water from the dry formulation until the moment of use. Each bead is designed as a single-dose unit that is dissolved immediately before application.

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No Preservative System in the Dry Bead

The dry format contains no free water to support microbial growth, reducing the need for a conventional preservative system within the bead formulation.

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Dry-State HA Storage

Sodium hyaluronate remains in the dry bead until dissolution, avoiding prolonged exposure to the aqueous environment of a conventional multi-use serum.

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Precise Single Dose

Each bead contains a defined quantity of formulation, supporting consistent single-use preparation.

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Ambient Storage

The dry format is designed for ambient-temperature storage, supporting distribution without refrigerated handling.

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Clean-Label Potential

Removing water from the dry bead can reduce the formulation requirements associated with preservation of conventional aqueous HA products.

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Custom Molecular Weight Options

HMW, LMW and multi-weight sodium hyaluronate formulations can be evaluated according to product-development requirements.

04 — APPLICATIONS

Skincare Use Cases & Formulation Applications

EVIK™ LyoPearl Hyaluronic Acid supports product-development concepts where fresh preparation, single-dose delivery and molecular-weight selection are important considerations.

Preservative-Free HA Serum

Single-dose sodium hyaluronate delivery designed for fresh preparation at each application without a conventional preservative system inside the dry bead.

Two-Component HA System

Pair the bead with botanical water, niacinamide solution or another liquid activator in a dual-component packaging concept.

Hydration-Focused Treatment

Intensive single-dose hydration formats for product lines targeting dry, dehydrated or mature skin.

Multi-Ingredient Lyobead

Sodium hyaluronate can be explored alongside vitamin C, collagen peptides or other actives within a custom bead format.

Clean Beauty & Waterless Skincare

A dry delivery format supporting preservative-free, waterless and clean-label product-development concepts.

Travel & Sample Formats

Ambient-stable single-dose beads provide a compact alternative to conventional liquid sample and travel formats.

Molecular Weight Evaluation

Compare HMW, LMW and multi-weight sodium hyaluronate formulations using a lyophilized bead delivery format.

EVIK™ LyoPearl

EVIK™ LyoPearl Hyaluronic Acid

EVIK™ LyoPearl Hyaluronic Acid is available for research and evaluation. Each bead contains 3.1 mg of freeze-dried formula at 23.1% sodium hyaluronate dry weight.

3.1 mg Freeze-dried formula per bead
23.1% Sodium hyaluronate — dry weight
10 LyoPearls per vial

Available in specified molecular-weight grades. HMW, LMW and multi-weight sodium hyaluronate options can be discussed for specific formulation and product-development requirements.